How To Remove Hydraulic Cylinder End Cap

rickw Well-Known Member

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Dec 4, 2022

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213

Location:

ohio

I have the adaptable spanner wrench pivot type gland wrench. It is the black heavy duty type that takes the 3/four" square drive. It is heavy duty but I dont seem to exist able to get much torque in it practise to it wanting to bound out of pin holes? It dont lock at the swivel I dont think. Very cumbersome to utilize. Any suggestions? As heavy and thick equally the tool is it seems like it will have way more than torque than I can apply
First affair to do is trick I picked up from someone on this board; Accept a hammer and hitting the terminate of the cylinder that is over the threaded portion of the gland evenly all the way around the cylinder. Don't hit it hard plenty to paring it, just do striking information technology with some authority, get around several times. Then attempt your wrench again, I bet information technology comes right off.
I don't have a spanner, I have a homemade wrench. I torched out of one/four flat a large y looking piece, and drilled holes in the end of it. I built this to bolt to a 7.3 diesel fuel waterpump caster to hold it while I took another homemade wrench to break loose the radiator fan, which is threaded to the snoot of the waterpump.

Looking around for a way to have these glands loose, I took my bootleg y and put one ane/four-twenty commodities with a nut in just one of the holes. I stick information technology in the hole in the gland and let the rest of the y rub against the chrome cylinder rod. It has broke everyone of them loose and then far, I accept done 4 different cylinders on my Case 480c. Merely I do have to hit information technology with a hammer all the fashion around or they will not come up loose.
Tip for ya on threaded fans a quick blip of an air chisel breaks them free every bit long as yous dont turn it the wrong mode also i usea very dull chisel to minimize damage i hate pissing with those things .... I just took to roughly 4 inch barrel size cylinders apart made a homade wrwnch similar yous messed it up though , barely got my big pipe wrench on there and started having banana tap straight lines with a ball peen hammer while i sat on wrench later on about 5 lines she broke free wasnt hit information technology that difficult either just enough to bust pigment and put a very small-scale mark on the barrel,
Striking on the butt in the thread surface area really works well to get them going. Y'all can do it in ii steps and it works just as well, you lot don't need pressure on information technology while you striking it.
Rick ; The hinge on the gland wrench does non need to lock. It simply needs to exist tight enough to keep the pins the correct distance when you modify the position on the gland. The pins will not spring / popular out of the gland if you are using the correct diameter pivot for the holes. But if the holes in the gland are damaged you have a challenge to bargain with. Peen around the barrel similar previously described and it will come out. Avoid using a pipe wrench, don't even think almost it. You lot will just create a bigger trouble. If the pivot holes are really nasty, take the gland to a machine shop and take 4 new pin holes drilled in it. Unless you tin can exercise it yourself in a drill press.
Make certain the lock screw is removed.
Delmer Senior Member

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Jan iii, 2022

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WI

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/hoist-piston-end-cap-removal-question.11396/
here's a thread describing peening and a moving picture in post #seven.

Use a ratchet strap to keep the pins from pulling out.

If it'southward locktited, you'll demand oestrus to soften the locktite.
rickw Well-Known Member

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Dec 4, 2022

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213

Location:

ohio

Thanks for all the quick responses!! Billrog, I am aware of the set screws. I just re packed the same right side stabilizer cylinder. I took information technology in assembled. Tube had been hit pretty proficient and I could not go it to get. The bucket clyinder gland spun right out though. The ane I am working on now is the dipper/crowd cylinder. What I like to practice is pull the gland and rod, Take it to local hyrdalic shop along with my packing kit and have them gather. The 2000 ft./lb on the end nut is beyond my capacity! That is if I can get gland loose. This is a ton of neat info, Pouring rain hither today. I will proceed everybody posted
NH575E Senior Member

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Dec xxx, 2022

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Retired Machinist

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North, FL

I rebuilt a stabilizer I had had apart before and couldn't get the gland loose the second time. Took it to the hydraulic shop assuming they had the correct tools. They used a big pipe wrench with an viii ft pipage and ii guys. Side by side time I meet that I will spend my 80 bucks on a large pipe wrench.
There is a reason why Tinker said dont use a pipe wrench i just used one to get two glands off only stuff can get ruined really easy doing that, on that annotation i said i was sitting on it but actually i was simply keeping light force per unit area on it while it was existence peened i was in a hurry to check the barrel out incase i needed to send them out ,i barely left a jaw mark in my glands i will be rebuilding my diy gland wrench for reassmbly getting the holes rite this fourth dimension .
Sometimes you can't help putting buggers on things. A good sharp file and some time volition usually bring information technology back in to usable shape.
I have been leaving all my cylinders on the machine, merely pulling the guts out each time. I usually use a winch hooked to my pickup to pull them out, with a large stack of cardboard below the cylinder to catch it when it comes out.

I also accept been doing all my own packing. Those nuts are terribly tight. I was able to go all of them loose except ane, the blast cylinder. I actually twisted off a harbor freight three/4 breaker bar trying to get it loose. I ended up going to a big truck garage, they had a large 1 inch bulldoze impact wrench. I just held the cylinder rod with my manus and about 5 or half dozen hits from their bear on and it was loose.

I have had good success repairing the hoe cylinders and no leaks afterward. Merely one of my small steering cylinders was leaking pretty badly, got a kit for information technology, those small cylinders are harder to pack than the larger ones, and it still leaks. So it'southward going to be round 2 for that one. If I can't get it, I saw a complete cylinder on ebay for $lxx.
rickw Well-Known Member

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December iv, 2022

Messages:

213

Location:

ohio

Well I tried all I could with what I had and could not go the gland off the v" dia. Dipper cylinder. I ended upward pulling the whole cylinder and taking it into hyd. shop. I had the kit just need them for the labor. In one case it is done (hopefully today) I volition put it back in and start on the loader. They are much smaller and hopefully much easier to disassemble.
rickw Well-Known Member

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December 4, 2022

Messages:

213

Location:

ohio

Loader tilt cylinder glands would non pause free for me either. I got them back and they had to heat them and use a pipe wrench! I will be putting them back on and pulling loader hoist cylinders.
rickw Well-Known Member

Joined:

Dec 4, 2022

Messages:

213

Location:

ohio

I pulled loader hoist cylinders and both swing cylinders yesterday. All 4 glands came loose with no problem! Looks like my luck is changing. That is all of the cylinders on the machine repacked or replaced. We had to replace the smash cylinder concluding yr do to the cap weld kept cracking. Information technology had a crumby weld on information technology when we bought auto and started leaking. Nosotros had it rewelded. Information technology leaked once again a year subsequently, rewelded it again to become through the summer and so replaced the cylinder.